gdavis
05/14/06, 5:20 PM
Coming back from Restless' GPS Poker Run on "The Rim" last weekend, I noticed my trailer brakes (21' Weekend Warrior Super Lite) weren't nearly doing the job I was used to. It took turning the controller up to almost twice the usual value before I felt comfortable with the braking. I was hoping adjustment, but knew it would be more than that.
When I was questioning an RV tech about the brake system, he made it a point to tell me to check the shoes for cracking. At the bottom of this post is an example of what I found.
The purpose of this topic is to make all aware of the brake cracking, which seems to be a pretty common occurence, as well as to pass on my self education on trailer brakes.
First, you don't need to be a Master Mechanic to work these brakes, though some mechanical ability would be good.
From what I saw of brake wear, and I use my hauler probably 12 - 15 times / year, I would check brake adjustment and wear once annually, and it goes like this......
First check that the brakes are applying while at the same time checking your emergency brake switch. That's the switch that actuates the brakes if the trailer should separate from the tow vehicle. Jack one side (or one wheel) at a time, pull the pin on the emergency brake switch (different makes may vary) and check all wheels for brake actuation.
Now here's where you have to make a decision on weather to just adjust the brakes, or pull off the drums to check the linings.
It's financially important to plan ahead on brake service as it's 30% - 50% cheaper to buy parts on-line, I found that out the hard way.
Another consideration is weather to buy and just replace the linings, or to buy the whole assembly which consists of the back plate, shoes, magnet, etc, all assembled (no drum). With that set-up it's 4 bolts and 2 wires slap the drum back on and you're done. The problem I see with that is expense (2-3 times) and the bearing repack, which should always be done with a brake change. Cleaning and repacking bearings is the most time consuming part of the job, while changing the brake shoes won't take much longer than bolting on that whole new assembly that cost 3 times more than the shoes.
Anyway, after all was said and done, I had one wheel with no braking and assumed it was the magnet after verifying there was power to it. I replaced the magnet and no help. Ended up being a broken ground wire for that magnet.
I guess I could have got lucky and found that broken wire right away......or was I lucky I didn't find it right away?
6 out of 8 shoes looked like these. Is cracking of the lining over rated? Or is it a disaster waiting to happen? I can tell ya from experience, losing just one brake makes a HUGE difference in stopping power, especilly rolling down a 6% grade.
http://www.ridingarizona.com/forum/uploaded/gdavis/200651511657_brakes.jpg
When I was questioning an RV tech about the brake system, he made it a point to tell me to check the shoes for cracking. At the bottom of this post is an example of what I found.
The purpose of this topic is to make all aware of the brake cracking, which seems to be a pretty common occurence, as well as to pass on my self education on trailer brakes.
First, you don't need to be a Master Mechanic to work these brakes, though some mechanical ability would be good.
From what I saw of brake wear, and I use my hauler probably 12 - 15 times / year, I would check brake adjustment and wear once annually, and it goes like this......
First check that the brakes are applying while at the same time checking your emergency brake switch. That's the switch that actuates the brakes if the trailer should separate from the tow vehicle. Jack one side (or one wheel) at a time, pull the pin on the emergency brake switch (different makes may vary) and check all wheels for brake actuation.
Now here's where you have to make a decision on weather to just adjust the brakes, or pull off the drums to check the linings.
It's financially important to plan ahead on brake service as it's 30% - 50% cheaper to buy parts on-line, I found that out the hard way.
Another consideration is weather to buy and just replace the linings, or to buy the whole assembly which consists of the back plate, shoes, magnet, etc, all assembled (no drum). With that set-up it's 4 bolts and 2 wires slap the drum back on and you're done. The problem I see with that is expense (2-3 times) and the bearing repack, which should always be done with a brake change. Cleaning and repacking bearings is the most time consuming part of the job, while changing the brake shoes won't take much longer than bolting on that whole new assembly that cost 3 times more than the shoes.
Anyway, after all was said and done, I had one wheel with no braking and assumed it was the magnet after verifying there was power to it. I replaced the magnet and no help. Ended up being a broken ground wire for that magnet.
I guess I could have got lucky and found that broken wire right away......or was I lucky I didn't find it right away?
6 out of 8 shoes looked like these. Is cracking of the lining over rated? Or is it a disaster waiting to happen? I can tell ya from experience, losing just one brake makes a HUGE difference in stopping power, especilly rolling down a 6% grade.
http://www.ridingarizona.com/forum/uploaded/gdavis/200651511657_brakes.jpg